The Old Man in the Village
WUTE, Ghana – The old man sits on the porch of a village house that once belonged to his mother. In three days, he’ll turn 80 so he’s in a reflective mood, as much as a man of his ilk can be. My visit is unexpected. He excuses himself to change from a ragged t-shirt […]
Complicated Quest for Maiden West Africa Journey
ACCRA, Ghana – I walk out of the airport and into the city where, like many developing world capitals, you instantly are confronted with street life on steroids. Scores of taxi drivers plead for you to jump in their nearby cab. “Mr! Mr! Where you go?” My guy, James Mawuli, has been arranged in advance. […]
Activist Works Day – and Night – for Social Reform
SKOPJE, North Macedonia – I’m sitting in front of Vegan365Kitchen waiting for an 11 a.m. appointment with its owner, Dragana Velkovska. She’s running late. A man on a bike turns up, removes his helmet and asks: “Are you the reporter waiting for Dragana?” “Yes,” I respond. He introduces himself as Dragana’s husband, Marian. It had […]
Macedonia vs Macedonia: A Dispute with No End
SKOPJE, North Macedonia – In the U.S., we have two Dakotas, two Carolinas and a pair of Virginias. Any issues over their division and names dissipated long ago. Such is not the case when discussing the two Macedonias – yes, two – which until a couple of days ago was news to me. A month […]
Mayor Leads Village to Surprising Success
DEIR EL GHAZAL, Lebanon – Amid a collapsed banking system, corrupt and ineffective government and resulting national malaise, uplifting stories are hard to come by in a country once considered the region’s jewel. But here in the foothills of the Anti-Lebanon Mountain range, a feel-good tale is taking place in a village of 240 homes. […]
Young Albanians, Seeking Independence, Caught Between Old Ways – and the New
TIRANA, Albania – During the few nights I spent in this capital city I noticed the cafes and bars in my neighborhood packed with young adults. On the sidewalks, the women, many of them scantily and provocatively dressed to offset the late summer heat and attract the attention of testosterone-charged chaps, walked arm-in-arm in groups […]
Albanian Community ServiceActivist Leads by Example
KRUJE, Albania – For the past several years I’ve served as a judge for a national service organization that awards two, $15,000 college scholarships to well-deserving high school students. It’s a difficult decision because the academic achievements and extracurricular activities of the many applicants always are extraordinary. In particular, the best candidates shine in their […]
Film Producer’s Work HelpsEase Scars from Communist Era
TIRANA, Albania – To truly appreciate and understand freedom you either had to have fought for it or lived under a socialist or fascist totalitarian regime. Fabian Kati can speak with authority on the latter. His uncle was a high-ranking official in the Albanian Workers’ Party, one of the most brutal and repressive socialist governments […]
Bonding at Breakfast with Tirana Hotelier
TIRANA, Albania – I’m eating breakfast at the City Hotel Tirana. A plain omelet, chunk of feta cheese, tasty local olives, toast and an excellent cappuccino for four euros [$4.70]. Sitting across from me in his usual seat is Edmond Godolja, owner of the boutique lodge ideally located in the center of Albanian’s capital. Edmond […]